My pals needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their house is at the low point on the plot and for years the septic system has not worked well. They needed to fix it so that they can have toilets which actually flush within the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has highlighted the issue so that they made the decision to spend the sizable sum of money to correct the issue.
The device consists of the regular septic tank then this septic effluent pump tank and after that a distribution tank located in the top in the hill. The newest septic tank had to be placed so as to not disturb the old tank so the existing system could still be used during construction. The pump tank must be located slightly below the septic tank in order that gravity would flow the waste water with it. The septic tank effluent pump sits within the pump tank and pumps water to the distribution tank high on the hill. From that point, water will drain to the field lines by gravity.
My job ended up being to connect the sump pump and alarm towards the electrical supply. The alarm is needed through the local sewer codes to produce a visual and audible alarm should the water level within the pump tank exceed a certain level. This gives an early warning there is a thing wrong using the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm must have their own separate circuit. When the alarm was powered by the supply to the pump and the breaker tripped towards the pump, there will be no alarm. I installed the alarm inside the house so that it can simply be seen and heard as suggested by the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires right to the alarm panel and ran them all inside conduit so it could be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for that AC addition. This box had a couple of extra spaces inside it that made a perfect location to pull power for the new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for the sump pump service along with a 15 AMP standard breaker for the alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers with this older Square D box.
Probably the most labor intensive area of the job was running the underground wires through the box in the front of your home for the septic field behind the home. Much of the trench had to be dug by hand because of close proximity of the AC compressor, flower beds along with a sidewalk. A lot of the trench was dug through the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for that pump as well as a 14 gage wire for that alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit had not been needed. I did so run conduit for additional protection from the box down to the base of the 24 inch qiggkp trench at every end in the wire. I used the identical 14 gage direct burial wire to prolong the float wiring from the alarm unit for the field.
At the pump tank, I installed a weather-resistant single 20 AMP outlet on a 4×4 post. Here is where the Myers Sewer pump is connected. The plug provides the required local disconnect because the breaker is not really within sight of the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
Some conduit was cut to match in to the neck from the tank so that the cord to the septic pump as well as the alarm float wiring would be protected. The conduit ends slightly underneath the outlet for the septic pump.
Our local inspector was pleased with the details and water proofing. I used a compression fitting at the bottom of every conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to stop critters from finding their distance to the junction boxes.
I tied a length of rope towards the sump pump, fastened the alarm float towards the outlet pipe and thoroughly lowered the sewer pump in place. I secured the free end from the rope to one of many lifting lugs from the sewer pump tank. The plumbing contractor can finish his work to obtain their system operational. I am sure they will enjoy having the ability to take baths and flush the toilet even if it rains.